Glitter, sequins, and metallic flakes can turn an ordinary resin pour into something genuinely stunning. But if you have ever watched a beautiful swirl of gold flakes slowly drift to the bottom of your mold, or opened a cured piece to find all your sequins clumped in one corner, you already know the frustration. These problems are incredibly common — and completely fixable once you understand why they happen.
This guide is written specifically for Indian crafters working with epoxy and UV resin at home. We will cover the science behind why inclusions move in resin, the practical steps to suspend them properly, and the specific challenges that come with India's climate — including the humidity of monsoon season and the heat of summer pours. Whether you are a beginner or someone who has been crafting for a while and keeps hitting the same walls, this is for you.
By the end, you will know exactly how to use glitter in resin art so that it stays exactly where you put it — mid-pour, top layer, or evenly distributed throughout — without sinking, bleeding, or clumping.
Quick Answer: How to Keep Glitter Suspended in Resin
If you are in a hurry, here is the short version:
- Use fine-cut polyester glitter, not chunky craft glitter — it has less mass and sinks slower.
- Mix glitter into a slightly thickened resin (let it sit for 3-5 minutes after mixing before adding inclusions).
- Pour in thin layers and add glitter between layers rather than all at once.
- For metallic flakes, apply them on a tacky partial-cure layer rather than mixing them in.
- Avoid resin that is too warm — heat thins the viscosity and makes everything sink faster.
- Test your glitter for color bleeding in a small resin drop before committing to a full pour.
Why Glitter and Sequins Sink in Resin
Resin is a liquid, and like any liquid, it follows the rules of density and viscosity. Glitter particles — especially chunky hexagonal sequins and larger craft glitter — are denser than the surrounding resin. Gravity pulls them down. The speed at which they sink depends on two things: the size and weight of the particle, and how thick (viscous) the resin is.
Fresh-mixed epoxy resin is relatively thin, especially in the first 30-45 minutes after mixing. During this window, heavy inclusions will sink quickly. As the resin begins to cure and thicken, it slows the movement — but by then, your glitter may already be sitting at the bottom.
Sequins are particularly troublesome because they are flat and wide. They catch the liquid and orient themselves horizontally as they fall, which means they end up lying flat at the base of your mold rather than floating at different angles. This is why a sequin-heavy piece often looks flat and dull from the top — all the sparkle is face-down at the bottom.
Understanding this is the first step toward fixing it. If you want to learn more about how resin behaves during mixing and curing, the How to Choose the Right Resin Ratio for Your First Project: 1:1 vs 2:1 Explained for Indian Beginners article is a great starting point.
Choosing the Right Type of Glitter and Inclusions
Not all glitter behaves the same in resin. Here is what to look for:
Fine Polyester Glitter
This is the best glitter for resin art in India. Fine-cut polyester glitter (0.008" or smaller) is lightweight, resists color bleeding, and stays suspended much longer than craft glitter. It is also heat-stable, which matters when your resin exotherms during cure.
Chunky Craft Glitter
The kind sold at stationery shops is usually cut from Mylar or plastic film. It is heavier, sinks fast, and often bleeds color into the resin — especially in warm conditions. Use it only in top-layer applications where sinking is not an issue.
Sequins
Best used in between cured layers or pressed onto a tacky surface. Avoid mixing sequins directly into a fresh pour unless you are working with a very thick resin or a UV resin that cures in seconds.
Metallic Flakes and Foils
These are ultra-thin sheets of metallic film. Products like Metallic Flakes Combo from Shrebhavi give you a mix of colors to experiment with. Because they are so thin and light, they actually behave differently from glitter — they tend to float and clump at the surface rather than sink. More on handling them in the dedicated section below.
Polymer Inclusions
Items like Flower Polymer Chips (10gm) are decorative polymer pieces that sit beautifully in resin when placed intentionally in layers. They are too large to suspend uniformly but work wonderfully as focal elements in a layered pour.
Suspension Techniques That Actually Work
There is no single trick here — the best results come from combining a few simple methods.
1. Let Your Resin Thicken Before Adding Inclusions
After mixing your resin thoroughly, wait 3 to 5 minutes before adding glitter. The resin will have started its initial cure and will be slightly more viscous. This small window makes a noticeable difference in how long glitter stays suspended.
Do not wait too long — if the resin starts to get stringy or gel-like, you have missed the window and the resin will not level properly.
2. Pour in Thin Layers
Instead of doing one thick pour with glitter mixed throughout, do two or three thin layers. Pour the first layer, let it reach a tacky-but-not-fully-cured state (usually 4-6 hours for most Indian epoxy resins at room temperature), then add your glitter layer, then pour the final clear or tinted layer on top. This sandwiches the glitter exactly where you want it.
3. Use a Suspension Medium
Some crafters mix a tiny amount of cornstarch or a commercial resin suspension medium into the resin before adding glitter. This increases viscosity without affecting clarity significantly. Use sparingly — too much will cloud your resin.
4. Work in a Cooler Environment
Heat thins resin. In Indian summers, a room at 34-36°C can make your resin so fluid that even fine glitter sinks in minutes. If possible, work in an air-conditioned room or during cooler morning hours. This is especially relevant during summer pours — the Deep Pour vs Thin Pour Epoxy in Indian Summers: Why Your Resin Overheats in May and What to Do About It article covers the temperature issue in detail.
5. Tilt and Rotate the Mold
After pouring, gently tilt and rotate your mold every 10-15 minutes for the first hour. This keeps inclusions moving and prevents them from settling in one spot. It is a bit tedious but very effective for pieces where even distribution matters.
Working with Metallic Flakes and Foils
Metallic flakes are one of the most popular inclusions in resin art right now — and they have their own quirks. The Gold Flakes and Silver Flakes available at Shrebhavi are ultra-thin and give a gorgeous, organic look when used correctly.
The Clumping Problem
Metallic flakes are so light that they tend to clump together when dropped into resin. Static electricity and surface tension pull them into little bundles. Once clumped, they are very difficult to separate inside the resin without creating air bubbles.
The fix: before adding flakes to resin, separate them with a dry brush or by shaking them loosely over the surface from a height of 15-20 cm. This breaks up static and allows individual flakes to fall separately.
Surface Application Method
The most reliable method for metallic flakes is surface application. Pour your resin layer and let it cure to a tacky stage — usually 4 to 8 hours depending on your brand. At this point, the surface is sticky but not liquid. Press or brush metallic flakes onto this surface. They will bond without sinking, and you can then seal them with a final clear pour.
For a luxurious effect, try combining Gold Granules (27gm) with fine gold flakes — the granules add texture and dimension while the flakes give you that thin, mirror-like shimmer.
Mixing Flakes Directly
If you want flakes distributed throughout the piece rather than on the surface, add them to a slightly thickened resin and work quickly. Use a toothpick or silicone spatula to gently spread them rather than stirring vigorously — aggressive stirring introduces air bubbles and re-clumps the flakes.
Stopping Color Bleeding from Glitter and Sequins
Color bleeding happens when the dye in cheap glitter or sequins dissolves into the resin, turning your clear or white resin pink, blue, or whatever color the glitter was. This is a very common problem when using glitter bought from local craft stores or stationery shops.
How to Test for Bleeding
Before using any new glitter in a full pour, do a bleed test: mix a small amount of resin, drop in a pinch of glitter, and let it cure. If the resin around the glitter changes color, that glitter will bleed in your actual piece. Do not skip this step — it saves a lot of wasted material.
Use Resin-Safe Glitter
Polyester glitter is generally resin-safe. Glitter labeled "solvent-resistant" or "resin-safe" is specifically made for this use. Metallic flakes made from aluminum or genuine metal foil do not bleed at all — which is one reason they are a better choice for clean, professional results.
Seal the Glitter First
If you have glitter that you love but suspect might bleed, coat it with a thin layer of Mod Podge or a resin-safe sealer and let it dry completely before adding it to your pour. This creates a barrier between the dye and the resin. It is not foolproof, but it works well enough for most craft glitters.
Resin Art Tips for Monsoon Season India
Monsoon season in India brings a specific set of challenges for resin artists. Humidity above 75-80% is the main villain — it causes resin surfaces to cloud, cure unevenly, and in some cases, stay sticky indefinitely.
When it comes to glitter and inclusions, high humidity affects things in a few ways. Glitter can absorb surface moisture and carry tiny water droplets into your resin, which causes cloudiness around each particle. Sequins may have a slight moisture film that prevents good adhesion between layers.
- Store your glitter and inclusions in airtight containers during monsoon months.
- Before using, spread your glitter on a dry surface for 10-15 minutes in an air-conditioned room to remove surface moisture.
- Work with a dehumidifier running if possible, or use a silica gel packet in your craft area.
- Avoid pouring resin when humidity is above 80% — the results are rarely worth it.
For more ideas on working with resin during the rainy season, check out Creating Unique Monsoon Decor: A Step-by-Step Guide to Using Silicone Molds with Resin — it has some genuinely beautiful project ideas that work well even in humid conditions.
Also, if your resin comes out sticky after curing, humidity is often the culprit. The Why Your Resin Is Still Sticky After 24 Hours — and How to Fix It Before You Ruin the Piece article walks you through diagnosing and fixing this exact problem.
Inclusion Type Comparison Table
| Inclusion Type | Sinking Risk | Clumping Risk | Bleeding Risk | Best Application Method | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Polyester Glitter | Low–Medium | Low | Low (if resin-grade) | Mix into slightly thickened resin | Uniform sparkle throughout |
| Chunky Craft Glitter | High | Medium | High | Top layer only | Surface decoration |
| Sequins | High | Medium | Medium | Between cured layers | Statement pieces, coasters |
| Metallic Foil Flakes | Very Low (floats) | High | None | Tacky surface press-in or dry brush drop | Luxury finish, geode art |
| Gold/Silver Granules | Medium | Low | None | Mix in or surface press | Texture, 3D effect |
| Polymer Chips/Flowers | Medium–High | Low | None | Place in layer, seal over | Focal design elements |
Step-by-Step: Suspended Glitter Pour for Beginners
Here is a simple method to do a two-layer suspended glitter pour in a round silicone mold. This works well for coasters, small trays, and decorative tiles.
What You Need
- Epoxy resin (2:1 or 1:1 ratio — check your brand)
- Fine polyester glitter in your chosen color
- Metallic flakes (optional, for the top layer)
- Silicone mold
- Mixing cups and silicone spatula
- Heat gun or lighter for bubbles
- Gloves and ventilation
Step 1 — Mix Your Resin
Mix Part A and Part B according to your brand's ratio. Stir slowly for 3-4 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup. Fast stirring introduces bubbles. If you are unsure about ratios, the UV Resin vs Epoxy Resin for Small Moulds: Which One Actually Works Better for Keychains, Pendants, and Jewelry in Indian Humidity? article can help you decide which resin type suits your project.
Step 2 — Wait 3-5 Minutes
Set the mixed resin aside and wait. You want it to just begin thickening — it should still pour easily but feel slightly more resistant than water. This is your suspension window.
Step 3 — Add Glitter
Add your fine glitter — about half a teaspoon per 100ml of resin is a good starting point. Stir gently with a toothpick using figure-eight motions rather than circular stirring. This distributes the glitter without creating a vortex that pulls everything to the center.
Step 4 — Pour the Base Layer
Pour about half your resin into the mold. Pop bubbles with a quick pass of a heat gun (keep it 15-20 cm away — too close will scorch the surface and cause yellowing). Let this layer cure to a firm but tacky state — usually 5-8 hours at 26-28°C.
Step 5 — Add the Metallic Flake Layer
Once the base layer is tacky, drop or brush your metallic flakes onto the surface. They will stick immediately. Use a dry brush to arrange them if needed. At this stage, you can also press in polymer chips or sequins as design elements.
Step 6 — Seal with Final Pour
Mix a fresh batch of clear resin and pour it over the tacky layer. This seals everything in place. Pop bubbles and leave to cure fully — typically 24-48 hours depending on your resin brand and ambient temperature.
Safety Note
Always work in a well-ventilated space. Resin fumes are not pleasant and can cause headaches with prolonged exposure. Wear nitrile gloves — resin is a skin sensitizer, meaning repeated skin contact can cause allergic reactions over time. Keep your workspace away from food preparation areas, and keep pets and children away from uncured resin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does glitter sink to the bottom in resin even when I mix it in properly?
Glitter sinks because it is denser than the liquid resin around it. The thinner and warmer your resin is, the faster this happens. The fix is to add glitter after the resin has started to thicken slightly (3-5 minutes post-mix), work in a cooler environment, and pour in thin layers rather than one thick pour. Fine polyester glitter sinks much more slowly than chunky craft glitter, so switching glitter types also makes a big difference.
How do I stop glitter from clumping in resin?
Clumping usually happens when you add too much glitter at once or when the glitter has static charge. Add glitter in small amounts and stir gently with a toothpick using slow, even motions. For metallic flakes specifically, separate them before adding by shaking them from a height or using a dry brush to break up any bundles. Avoid pouring glitter directly from the container in one go.
Which is the best glitter for resin art in India?
Fine-cut polyester glitter labeled as resin-safe or solvent-resistant is the best choice. It is lightweight, does not bleed color, and is heat-stable enough to handle the exotherm of curing resin. For metallic effects, aluminum-based metallic flakes (like gold and silver foil flakes) are excellent because they do not bleed at all and give a very premium finish. Avoid cheap stationery glitter — it almost always bleeds and sinks quickly.
How do I use metallic foil flakes in resin without bleeding?
Genuine metallic foil flakes do not bleed because they are made from thin metal film, not dyed plastic. To use them without clumping, apply them to a tacky partial-cure resin surface rather than mixing them into fresh liquid resin. Brush them on loosely, let them settle, and seal with a final clear pour. If you want them mixed throughout the piece, add them to slightly thickened resin and stir gently — they will not bleed but may clump if over-stirred.
Can I use glitter in UV resin the same way as in epoxy resin?
UV resin cures in seconds under a UV lamp, which means there is almost no time for glitter to sink — this is actually an advantage. However, UV resin is typically used in thin layers and small quantities (keychains, pendants, small molds). For UV resin, you can mix glitter directly in and cure immediately. The main thing to watch is that heavy glitter or opaque inclusions can block UV light from reaching the bottom of the piece, causing incomplete curing. Use thin layers and cure each one fully before adding the next.
Why does my resin turn cloudy around the glitter particles?
Cloudiness around glitter is usually caused by one of three things: moisture on the glitter surface (very common during monsoon season in India), air bubbles trapped around the particles during mixing, or color bleeding from low-quality glitter. Store glitter in airtight containers, dry it briefly in an air-conditioned room before use, and always do a bleed test before committing to a full pour. If bubbles are the issue, a gentle pass with a heat gun after pouring usually clears them up.
Wrapping Up
Learning how to use glitter in resin art properly is mostly about understanding one thing: resin is a liquid with a limited window before it sets, and everything you put into it is subject to gravity, density, and temperature. Once you work with those factors rather than against them, the results improve dramatically.
To recap the key points: use fine polyester glitter or metallic flakes rather than craft glitter, add inclusions to slightly thickened resin, work in thin layers, apply metallic flakes to tacky surfaces for the cleanest results, and always test for color bleeding before a full pour. During monsoon season, keep your materials dry and your workspace humidity-controlled.
Shrebhavi stocks a good range of inclusions to get you started — from the Metallic Flakes Combo for experimenting with different metallic effects to individual Gold Flakes and Silver Flakes for more focused projects. Take your time, test in small batches, and trust the process. Resin art rewards patience more than almost any other craft medium.