Wedding season in India is intense. Whether you are planning a small intimate function or a 500-person shaadi, the little details — the table numbers, the seating cards, the name plates at each setting — add up to a lot of money when you order them from a vendor. A set of resin table numbers for a wedding, if bought from a studio, can easily cost ₹200–₹400 per piece. Make them yourself and each piece costs roughly ₹40–₹70 in materials, looks just as polished, and can be customised to match your exact colour palette.
This guide walks you through the complete process using a Tray Mould paired with alphabet or number inserts. You will learn how to mix epoxy correctly, how to get that glass-clear or marble-effect finish, and how to avoid the most common mistakes that ruin wedding pieces at the last minute.
Even if you have never touched resin before, this is very doable. The steps are straightforward. The materials are affordable. And the result — a set of gleaming, personalised resin name plates — is something guests genuinely notice and comment on.
Quick Answer
If you just want the essentials before reading the full guide:
- Use a 3:1 ratio epoxy resin for clear, hard casts in a tray mould.
- Pour in two layers — a thin base layer first, then embed your alphabet/number inserts, then top up.
- Add mica pigment, dried flowers, or gold foil to match your wedding colour theme.
- Full cure takes 48–72 hours at room temperature. Do not rush it.
- One batch of 665gm resin can comfortably yield 8–12 standard table number pieces from a 9×12 tray mould.
Why Resin Works So Well for Wedding Stationery
Resin has a few properties that make it almost ideal for wedding decor. It is fully transparent when cured, which means you can embed dried flowers, gold leaf, or printed paper inside the piece and they stay visible and protected forever.
It is also extremely durable. A cured epoxy resin table number will not bend, warp in humidity, or fade over the course of a multi-day wedding function. Acrylic or cardstock alternatives do not hold up the same way, especially in outdoor or open-air venues.
The third reason is customisation. You can match the resin colour exactly to your wedding palette — dusty rose and gold for a traditional Hindu wedding, sage green and white for a minimalist nikah setup, deep navy and silver for a reception. No printed stationery gives you that level of material richness.
If you are curious about how resin behaves in different formats before committing to a big wedding batch, read our guide on UV Resin vs Epoxy Resin for Small Moulds: Which One Actually Works Better for Keychains, Pendants, and Jewelry in Indian Humidity? — it explains the core differences clearly.
Materials You Need
Here is a complete list of what you will need before you start. Gather everything in one place before mixing — once resin is mixed, you have a limited working window.
- Epoxy resin and hardener — a 3:1 ratio formula works best for tray casting (more on this below)
- 9×12 tray mould — silicone, so pieces release cleanly
- Alphabet and number silicone inserts or stencils
- Mica pigment powders — gold, rose gold, white pearl, or any colour matching your theme
- Dried flowers, gold foil flakes, or glitter — optional but beautiful
- Digital kitchen scale — measuring by weight is more accurate than volume for resin
- Silicone mixing cups and stir sticks
- Heat gun or lighter — to pop surface bubbles
- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) wipes — for cleaning spills and prepping surfaces
- Nitrile gloves and a mask — non-negotiable for safety
- Toothpicks or a fine brush — for placing small embeds precisely
Choosing the Right Mould
The mould choice determines the final shape and feel of your resin name plate for the wedding. For table numbers, you want something rectangular and flat — like a small tray — so it can stand upright in a holder or lie flat at a place setting.
The Tray Mould (9×12 inches) from Shrebhavi is the go-to for this project. It gives you a generous surface area that you can either cast as one large piece and cut, or use as individual panels. The silicone releases cleanly without needing a mould release spray, which saves you a step.
If you want smaller, individual pieces — say, a name card for each guest rather than a table number — the Rectangle Cubic 20mm Deep Casting Mould (4" x 2") is a better fit. It gives you a chunkier, more three-dimensional piece that looks very premium when held.
For a centrepiece or larger decorative name board at the entrance, consider the 8" Square Agate/Zigzag Mould — the organic edge gives a natural stone look that photographs beautifully.
Mixing Your Epoxy Resin Correctly
This is the step where most beginners go wrong, and it is also the step that matters most. Incorrectly mixed resin will stay sticky, cloud up, or never fully harden — none of which you want two days before a wedding.
For this project, use a 3:1 ratio epoxy — three parts resin to one part hardener by weight. The Resin 3:1 (665gm) from Shrebhavi is well-suited for tray pours because it has a longer working time (around 40–50 minutes) and cures to a hard, clear finish.
Steps for mixing:
- Place your mixing cup on the scale and zero it out.
- Pour in 150g of resin (Part A), then add 50g of hardener (Part B) — that is your 3:1 ratio.
- Stir slowly for 3–4 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup. Do not whip it — that introduces air bubbles.
- Transfer to a second clean cup and stir again for 1–2 minutes. This double-cup method ensures no unmixed resin sits at the edges.
- Add your mica pigment now — start with a small amount (roughly the size of a pea) and build up to your desired opacity.
For a detailed breakdown of ratio choices, our blog post How to Choose the Right Resin Ratio for Your First Project: 1:1 vs 2:1 Explained for Indian Beginners is very helpful if this is your first time working with epoxy.
Design Styles for Wedding Table Numbers
Before you pour, decide on your aesthetic. Here are the most popular looks for resin wedding table decor in India right now:
Clear Transparent with Gold Numbers
Pour a thin, crystal-clear base. Embed gold-painted number inserts or gold foil cutouts. Top with a clear pour. The result looks like a luxury acrylic piece but feels warmer and more handmade.
Marble Effect
Use white and grey mica pigments. Pour them in separately and swirl with a toothpick before they set. Add thin veins of gold mica mixed with a drop of resin using a fine brush. This is the most requested look for modern Indian weddings.
Floral Embed
Press dried marigold petals, rose buds, or baby's breath flat and let them dry completely (at least 48 hours in silica gel) before embedding. Pour a thin base layer, place the flowers, wait for partial cure, then top up. Flowers that are not fully dried will discolour the resin brown.
Ombre Colour Wash
Mix two colours — say blush pink and ivory — and pour them at the same time on opposite sides of the mould. Use a toothpick to gently blend the meeting point. Do not over-blend or you lose the gradient.
Step-by-Step Casting Process
Follow this sequence for clean, professional results every time.
- Prep your workspace. Cover your table with a silicone mat or plastic sheet. Make sure the surface is level — even a slight tilt will give you uneven thickness.
- Set up the mould. Place the tray mould on a flat surface. If you are making multiple pieces, have all moulds ready before you mix.
- Mix your resin as described above. Work at room temperature — ideally 25–30°C. If your workspace is cooler than 22°C, the resin will thicken and become difficult to pour.
- Pour the base layer. Fill the mould to about one-third of its depth. Use a heat gun or pass a lighter briefly over the surface to pop bubbles. Do not hold the heat too close — 10–15 cm is enough.
- Wait for partial cure. Leave the base layer for 3–4 hours until it is gel-like but not fully hard. This is the window for embedding.
- Place your embeds. Add dried flowers, foil, or your alphabet inserts now. Press them gently into the gel surface so they stay in position.
- Pour the top layer. Mix a fresh batch of resin and pour it over the embeds to fill the mould completely. Smooth the surface and pop bubbles again.
- Cover and cure. Place a cardboard box or dust cover over the mould. Leave undisturbed for 48–72 hours.
If you are working during Indian summer months, read Deep Pour vs Thin Pour Epoxy in Indian Summers: Why Your Resin Overheats in May and What to Do About It before you start — heat management is critical for large tray pours.
Working with Alphabet and Number Inserts
This is where the resin name plate for the wedding really comes together. There are a few ways to get your numbers and letters into the piece:
Silicone Alphabet Moulds (Cast Separately)
Cast your numbers or letters in a separate small mould using opaque pigmented resin. Once cured, pop them out and embed them into the tray pour during the gel phase. This gives you a raised, three-dimensional letter that sits proud of the background — very studio-quality.
Vinyl Stencils
Stick a vinyl stencil to the bottom of the mould before pouring. Pour a thin layer of opaque coloured resin over it, let it cure, peel the stencil, then pour your clear or translucent top layer. The letters appear as a colour block against the background.
Printed Paper or Vellum Inserts
Print your table numbers on vellum or glossy paper. Seal the paper with a thin coat of Mod Podge on both sides and let it dry fully before embedding. Unsealed paper will absorb resin and turn translucent or wrinkled.
Brass or Acrylic Letter Inserts
These are available from craft suppliers and can be embedded directly. They add a premium weight to the finished piece and look very professional, especially in gold or rose gold finish.
Demolding and Finishing
After 48–72 hours, your piece should be hard to the touch with no flex. Peel the silicone mould away gently from the edges first, then lift the piece out.
Check the edges — tray moulds sometimes leave a slight lip or rough edge. Sand this with 400-grit wet sandpaper, then move to 800-grit, then finish with 1500-grit for a polished edge. Wipe clean and apply a thin coat of resin or a polishing compound to restore gloss if needed.
If you want to add a handle or stand, the Tray Handle Mould lets you cast a matching resin handle that can be glued on with epoxy adhesive. This turns a flat table number into a self-standing display piece.
If your piece has come out sticky, do not panic. Read Why Your Resin Is Still Sticky After 24 Hours — and How to Fix It Before You Ruin the Piece — there are fixes depending on what went wrong.
Safety Notes
Epoxy resin is safe to work with when you take basic precautions. Uncured resin and hardener are chemical irritants — treat them with respect.
- Always wear nitrile gloves. Latex gloves are not sufficient — epoxy can permeate them over time.
- Work in a ventilated space. Open windows or use a fan to circulate air. An N95 mask is a good idea for longer sessions.
- Keep resin away from children and pets until fully cured. Cured resin is inert and safe.
- Do not pour resin down the drain. Let leftover mixed resin cure in the cup, then dispose of it as solid waste.
- Exothermic reaction warning: Large volumes of mixed resin in a deep cup can heat up rapidly and even smoke. For big batches, spread the resin into a flat tray immediately after mixing to dissipate heat.
Resin Type Comparison for Wedding Pieces
| Property | 3:1 Epoxy Resin | 2:1 Epoxy Resin | UV Resin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Working time | 40–50 minutes | 20–30 minutes | Unlimited (before UV exposure) |
| Full cure time | 48–72 hours | 24–48 hours | 2–5 minutes under UV lamp |
| Best for | Large tray pours, table numbers | Medium pours, coasters | Small fills, thin layers only |
| Clarity | High | High | Very high |
| Yellowing over time | Low (UV-stabilised formula) | Low | Can yellow faster in sunlight |
| Cost per pour (approx.) | ₹35–₹60 per piece | ₹30–₹55 per piece | ₹15–₹40 per piece (small only) |
| Suitable for tray mould | Yes | Yes (thin layers) | No — too thick for UV to penetrate |
Turning This Into a Small Wedding Stationery Business
If you are making resin table numbers for a wedding and enjoying the process, you are not alone in thinking — can I do this for other people too? The answer is yes, and it is a genuinely viable small business in India right now.
Wedding season runs from October to March and then again in April–May. During peak season, a single wedding order for 30 table numbers plus a welcome board can bring in ₹4,000–₹8,000 in revenue. Material cost for that order would be roughly ₹1,200–₹1,800, leaving a healthy margin.
The key is to standardise your designs. Offer three or four colour palettes — one classic (white and gold), one romantic (blush and rose gold), one modern (black and silver), one regional (marigold yellow and deep red for traditional South Indian or Rajasthani weddings). This way you are not reinventing the design for every client.
Photograph every piece on a white or marble surface with natural light. Instagram and Pinterest are your primary marketing channels for this niche. Couples actively search for DIY epoxy resin wedding decor ideas and handmade wedding stationery in India.
For monsoon season orders, our guide on Creating Unique Monsoon Decor: A Step-by-Step Guide to Using Silicone Molds with Resin has some good ideas for adapting your product range to the off-peak season.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many table numbers can I make from one 665gm kit of 3:1 resin?
From a 665gm kit, you get roughly 500g of usable mixed resin (accounting for waste in mixing cups). A single 9×12 tray mould at about 5mm depth holds approximately 60–70ml of resin per pour. That gives you 7–8 full tray pours from one kit. If you are cutting each tray into two pieces, you get 14–16 individual table number pieces. Actual yield depends on your pour depth and how much you waste in mixing.
Can I use regular craft glitter instead of mica powder in my resin table numbers?
You can, but mica powder gives a much more professional finish. Glitter sits as visible particles in the resin and can look chunky up close. Mica powder disperses evenly and gives a smooth, metallic sheen that photographs beautifully. For wedding pieces especially, mica is worth the small extra cost. Use polyester glitter if you do want sparkle — it does not bleed colour into the resin the way some craft glitters do.
My resin table number has yellowed slightly after curing. What went wrong?
Yellowing usually happens for one of two reasons: the resin was exposed to direct sunlight while curing, or the formula you used does not have UV stabilisers. Always cure resin away from windows and direct light. If you are making pieces that will be displayed outdoors, use a UV-stabilised epoxy formula. A slight yellow tint can also happen if the hardener was measured incorrectly — too much hardener accelerates yellowing.
How do I make my resin name plate stand upright on a table?
There are a few options. The simplest is to buy small acrylic or metal card holders from a stationery supplier and slip the resin piece in — these cost about ₹10–₹20 each in bulk. Alternatively, cast a small base block in resin with a slot cut into it using a craft knife while the resin is still slightly soft. The most elegant option is to use the Tray Handle Mould to cast a matching resin stand that you glue to the back of the piece with strong epoxy adhesive.
Is it safe to embed fresh flowers in resin for a wedding piece?
Fresh flowers must never go directly into resin. The moisture in fresh flowers causes the resin to cloud, and the flowers themselves will rot and turn brown inside the piece within weeks. You must dry your flowers completely first — either press them flat between heavy books for 2–3 weeks, or use silica gel desiccant for 48–72 hours. Once fully dry and crispy, they are safe to embed. Seal dried flowers with a thin coat of resin or Mod Podge before placing them in the mould for the cleanest result.
How far in advance should I make resin table numbers for a wedding?
Make them at least 7–10 days before the wedding. This gives you time for the full cure (48–72 hours), plus time to sand and polish the edges, add any finishing touches, and redo any pieces that did not come out right. Rushing resin work for a wedding is the single biggest cause of disappointment — sticky pieces, cloudy casts, and bubbles that you notice only after the mould is open with no time to fix.
Wrapping Up
Making a resin table number for a wedding at home is one of those projects that feels ambitious until you actually do it — and then it feels surprisingly manageable. The 9×12 tray mould gives you the right format, the 3:1 epoxy gives you the right working time, and a little mica pigment or dried flower embed gives you the visual richness that makes guests stop and pick the pieces up to look at them.
The investment in materials is low. The learning curve is real but short — most people get excellent results by their second or third pour. And the satisfaction of seeing your handmade pieces on a wedding table, matching the exact colour palette you chose, is genuinely hard to beat.
All the materials mentioned in this guide — moulds, resin, pigments — are available at Shrebhavi.in, with fast shipping across India. If you have questions about a specific step or want help choosing the right mould size for your wedding setup, feel free to reach out through the website.